Installing a 4AGZE is a fairly straight forward, unlike a turbo setup, this requires little creativity and fab work. But some cars like trueno azul here, like to make things complicated, but i'm here to fix all that craziness. When it arrived some months back, it was running horribly. Running like terribly tuned carbed engine.
This is what the car came with when it arrived. Very beautiful don't you think. Oddly enough I remember when that setup was born. It ran with a standalone computer and alot of custom parts. They claim it was fast but i've only seen it featured in magazines and the show circuit. After that it was quickly and quietly parted. Never saw the thing on track so who knows how well it worked.
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| Yes you too can be JDM |
Since I ol' blue was running the stock factory issued 4AGZE computer,the current setup will never do. Some will tell you that you can get it running, maybe. But you'll always have issues with it, trust me on this one. One thing i've learned about running stock computers is all the sensors and auxillaries need to be hooked up, if it can't sense it the computer will hate for it and will let you know. You'll see more issues than most people care to deal, especially me. .
Let's take a look at the first no no when assembling one of these boosted beasts. Rubber elbow should never ever be used unless it's built for it. Sure i'm all for home depot parts, but engine parts no, touge air dams yes.
As you can see above this one wasn't up to par. The incredible suction created but the great supercharger easily collapsed the elbow.
I usually prefer using bent piping with straight hoses. I did my own custom bend on this particular application. 2in. tubing is used throughout since the largest openings on a 4AGZE is 2in. I seen some builds that use much larger piping, why is that? It ends going back to a 2in.
inlet anyways. It's like going through a
construction zone that started off as 4 lanes and reduces to 1 lane.
The rubber/silicon hoses have less chance of collapsing.
Many use
intercoolers that have the inlet and outlet on each end. I don't like that style and never will use it on a GZE setup. I never like the pipes crossing the
cylinder head, over the scorching heat of the
exhaust manifold to get to the other side of the intercooler. It just doesn't make sense. After it leaves the intercooler, it gets reheated from the pipe sitting above the exhaust manifold. The only thing I like reheated is pizza.
This is why the MA70 (86-91
Toyota Supra turbo) intercooler is the perfect match. Since it has the inlet and outlet on one side. It's
Toyota OEM quality and can be had for dirt cheap at the local
wrecking yard. It's a big win for every cheap bastard.
Tough the down side to this is a large ugly opening on the radiator support. If I was super obsessive about not wanting to cut metal from the car maybe I'd consider the tradition type of intercooler. So if i decided to return back to stock, there won't be any tell tale signs.
When the 4AGZE is installed in to a
RWD vehicle, the inlet will face the firewall of the vehicle. But if you're like my old friend Jimmy, he'll just cut a hole in the firewall and run the filter in the glove box. Don't ask me why, I still kinda wonder why to this day. Luckily the inlet can turn 180 deg. But in my case, I won't be able to install the air filter.
The alternative is to turn the inlet approximately 45 deg. But in doing so exposes an opening. This is part of the crank case ventilation, and isn't critical in engine operation.
Normally, I make a spacer plate to cover the opening and to clear the idle speed control valve. Unfortunately the place I get the material, was all out. Having no patience to look for another source, I created a gasket to cover up the opening. Another option would be to jam silicon into the opening, even I'm above that.
In the end, it does the job. This by no means is best way of doing a GZE setup, but my way of doing a GZE setup. There will always be someone who will have something better, but for me I know this has worked well with very little issue.
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