Every now and then cars show up with something wrong, simply cause the previous person who worked on the car didn't read directions or had a
dyslexic moment. Like reversed
head gasket install, or crossing ignition wires. Maybe I'm just becoming a
grumpy old man who doesn't like screwing with another person's screw up. But when it comes to the installation of
cylinder head studs. Should be an open and shut case right? Maybe most
engines yes. Fortunately, 4AG needs a wee bit more attention to detail when installing.
When installing these on your soon to be wicked 4AG, trimming of the
distributor shaft is required for clearance. Or you'll end up like this poor chap. The owner had actually forced the distributor back into place. When it takes alot of force to install, it's recommended you stop and check to be sure everything is o.k. It was ran like that too. I had to pry the distributor back out. Luckily it didn't bend the shaft, or break the distributor housing for that matter. What used to be a cylinderical tip has now become tapered. Seeing that the engine was also a fresh rebuild, I really hope his engine isn't compromised with the bits of metal that's now floating in the oil.
By examining the this screwed up tip. You can get an idea of how much material to remove to accommodate the head stud.
And just because the distributor doesn't fit due to the head stud, one should not replace it with the
OEM head bolt. I knew a guy who did such a thing. So he had a 9 heads and 1 head bolt. Big time fail, at least it's only going to be a hard parker, so no problems there.
But if you're like me, then don't bother with that stuff. Some may disagree, but it's your money. Many engines that came my way used the OEM parts and have proven themselves worthy. And their owners were definitely not hard parkers, some engines getting a good flogging on a monthly basis. Seriously, the only way i'd justify the use of such parts, is if you're 10k+ rpm
Formula Atlantic race engine or a 300hp+ 4AG. But if you're looking to score points at the show, then just list it on the spec sheet. It's not like they can tell what's inside anyways. And while your adding the studs, might as well put in Tomei stroker crank, HKS rods, etc.
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